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Used Kia Soul EV (Mk3, 2019-2025) buyer’s guide: a compelling all-round electric car

admin — Sat, 13 Jun 2026 09:15:48 +0000

All Souls are well equipped. The First Edition came with leather trim, adaptive cruise control, a Harman Kardon hi-fi, a head-up display and LED headlights. Also standard were heated front seats with eight-way electric adjustment for the driver’s seat, a reversing camera, wireless phone charging, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.

When the First Edition morphed into the Maxx, the electric driver’s seat adjustment was ditched, but a heated steering wheel and rear parking sensors became standard.

The Explore continued with the Maxx’s standard equipment, plus electric driver’s seat adjustment; Urban ditched the heated seats and steering wheel, the leather trim and the rear parking sensors.

Prices

Find an early, high-mileage Soul EV and you can pay as little as £10,000 for it if you buy privately, but few of these are available for less than £12,000. This bags a 20-plate First Edition with 30,000 miles on the clock; go for a Maxx instead and you should expect to spend upwards of £14,000, which secures a 22-plate example with 40,000 miles notched up. Spend £16,000, and a 10,000-mile Maxx on a 22-plate can be yours.

We saw very few Urbans for sale, but we did find a 3,000-mile car on a 24-plate being sold privately for £14,250. The most you’ll pay for a Soul EV is £20,000, which bags a 5,000-mile Explore on a 74-plate.

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DIY Automotive Air Conditioning Repair and Diagnostics Guide

admin — Thu, 04 Jun 2026 16:26:03 +0000

This guide is designed to help you understand, diagnose, and repair your vehicle’s air conditioning system. Throughout the guide, we cover common myths and pitfalls most owners encounter, explain how AC systems function, and walk you through the repair process step by step. I recently completed this exact repair on my 2016 Ford Mustang GT California Special, and you can follow along with the videos throughout the guide for a more hands-on visual approach.

Before you reach for that miracle-in-a-can at your local auto parts store or spend thousands on a diagnostic or repair, let’s cover some steps you can take to understand what went wrong and potentially fix it yourself, at home. Let’s get started!

Why the Myth of “Just Recharge It” and AC-in-a-Can Kits Make Things Worse

It’s easy to reach for the cheapest or seemingly most intuitive option when dealing with car repairs, and for some, that is an approach has worked for decades. However, air conditioning systems are fairly complex and require proper diagnostics and repair to function correctly.

The first thought might be a system recharge. You’ve probably heard it before. Your air conditioning system has a “small” leak, so if you “top it off” with refrigerant (or as some say, “Freon”, which is actually a discontinued brand name) every now and then, it should work fine.

The problem with this approach is twofold.

First, AC systems are in a closed loop and do not consume refrigerant, so if you have a leak, adding more will only push the problem down the road. Secondly, the refrigerants used in most vehicles cause substantial environmental harm if released freely, which is why it is illegal to intentionally release them into the atmosphere.

According to the California Air Resources Board (CARB), “Just the gas contained in one single 12-ounce container (of R134a) is equivalent to the carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions from burning 150 gallons of gasoline!”

How Automotive AC Systems Work

To understand how to repair an AC system, first let’s look at how it works.

Automotive air conditioning systems can be broken down into a common list of parts that work in unison to remove heat from the cabin and deliver cool air through the vents. A common misconception is that AC systems generate cold air; however, their primary function is to absorb and remove heat from the cabin. This is done with refrigerant.

Once heat is absorbed into the refrigerant in your cabin, it gets pulled through and compressed into a high-pressure gas by the compressor. This high-pressure gas is then pushed through the condenser, which, as the name implies, creates ideal conditions for the gas to condense into a liquid. This scientific process also releases heat during the condensation state change via fans or airflow from the front of the vehicle.

After your refrigerant returns to a liquid state, it passes through a dryer that removes residual air and moisture.

It then passes through the expansion valve, which restricts flow. The pressure drop created by this process sets the refrigerant up for another state change in the evaporator. As the low-pressure liquid refrigerant moves through the evaporator, it absorbs heat and evaporates back into a gas, leaving behind condensation that usually drains under the vehicle.

An air conditioning system operates in a closed loop, so all the refrigerant is reused throughout the process. It should never need to be “topped off” as long as the system remains leak-free. This refrigerant’s thermodynamic properties are key to the “how” behind an AC system’s function. Pretty neat, huh?

As you’re repairing the AC system on your vehicle, you will need a few common hand tools to complete the job properly.

A set of wrenches and/or sockets
Screwdrivers and pliers
Safety glasses and gloves
Floor jack and jack stands
Shop rags or paper towels

You will need a few more specialized tools while working on an AC system. These tools can all be purchased or rented from a local auto parts store.

Set of manifold gauges
Vacuum pump
Refrigerant recovery machine, unless taken to a mechanic separately
Leak detector and UV dye
A can tap to connect the refrigerant can to your vacuum line
Specialty removal tools, such as line disconnect or Schrader valve replacement tools

Check out the video below to see the tools I used for my repair.

Diagnosis, Repair Plan, and Disassembly

If your AC system suddenly stops working, it’s important to know what steps you should take to diagnose what’s wrong. Keep in mind that AC systems operate with highly compressed refrigerant, so safety is important. If you feel overwhelmed or unsafe, take your vehicle to a trustworthy mechanic.

To identify the issue with a system, first look at the symptoms. Intermittent cooling? Weak airflow? Strange sounds? No cold air at all? All of these problems can help you identify what’s wrong with your system and remove some of the guesswork about where to look. Let’s cover some common symptoms and their causes.

Weak airflow or cooling

An easy place to start is the cabin air filter. Sometimes filters can become clogged or blocked, affecting airflow from your vents. It’s also recommended to check fuses or relays connected to the blower motor. An electrical issue can cause weak or intermittent airflow.

Audible grinding, whining, clicking, or other unusual sounds

It’s quite common for components like the compressor, belts, or pulleys to fail after many thousands of miles on the road. When these parts fail, they sometimes emit unusual sounds that can help you identify the problem with the system. Try turning your AC compressor off and on while listening for anything out of the ordinary. Make sure your compressor turns on and that the clutch engages when you press the AC button.

Low or empty refrigerant in the system

Another very common issue is a refrigerant leak. As parts age and are used, flexible components like rubber gaskets tend to fail, leading to leaks. If your system loses refrigerant due to a leak, it limits its ability to cool and can also introduce air and moisture into the system, further degrading performance. You can introduce UV dye through the low-side port to help locate the leak.

If your problem is not easily diagnosable, it is advisable to bring your vehicle to an expert who can help locate the source of the issue. Even if you intend to repair the vehicle yourself, a mechanic can help remove any remaining refrigerant from the system and advise you on which parts need repair. Sometimes another pair of eyes can help us see something we never noticed before! Once you’ve verified the source of the problem and properly evacuated the system of refrigerant, you can begin disassembling the system as needed to repair or replace the problematic components.

Pro Tip: If you disassemble your air conditioning system because of a broken part like a compressor, be sure to use a flush or solvent to clean out the remainder of the system before rebuilding. If metal shards remain in the system after repair, they can damage the new components.

Reassembly, Vacuum, and Recharge

Once you are ready to refill your system and feel that cold air again, there are a few considerations before, during, and after the reassembly process.

Before refilling with refrigerant

You’ve taken apart your car, replaced the broken parts, and have the appropriate type and amount of refrigerant in hand. Before adding it to your system, locate the owner’s manual to determine how much refrigerant the system requires, as well as the type and quantity of oil to add. This number may depend on what parts you replaced, as each component holds some oil within the system. Ensure any replaced gaskets have been coated in the correct oil as well. Check fittings and ensure proper torque specs across all connections. Make sure electrical plugs and connections are all reconnected.

You will need to use a vacuum pump to evacuate any air or moisture from the system before adding new refrigerant. These can be purchased or rented at many local auto parts stores or online. When your system is under vacuum, the reduced pressure lowers the boiling point of water, allowing the pump to remove moisture.

As you are adding refrigerant

Be sure to replace any oil you removed during disassembly and add any required additional oil to the system. Using a manifold gauge, monitor system pressures to ensure proper operation. You can watch the compressor clutch to see whether it kicks on once the system has the minimum refrigerant capacity added. Once you have added the entire required amount of refrigerant to the system, check the temperature of the air coming from the vehicle’s vents to confirm the process was successful.

After adding refrigerant

Periodically check for leaks with a UV flashlight along common problem areas or connections throughout the system. Keep your condenser clean and ensure belts and filters are replaced according to the regular maintenance schedule.

If You Made it This Far, Your Air Should Be Ice Cold!

If you’ve followed this guide correctly, you’ll be enjoying cool air on the warmest days once again. Don’t forget to keep safety at the top of your list whenever working on your vehicle yourself, and reach out to a professional if repairs are beyond your skill set.

Visit our Maintenance and Repair Hub for expert-backed articles to help you make smart maintenance decisions with confidence.

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Car Leasing Guide: How to Lease a Vehicle in 2026

admin — Thu, 28 May 2026 04:00:26 +0000

Lease a Car: Quick Tips

Considering your annual mileage is a crucial step when leasing a car.
Negotiate when leasing to reduce the capital cost and money factor, which will lower your monthly payment.
Get familiar with leasing jargon because some terms aren’t used in traditional auto financing.
Establish and stay within a budget. Remember that you are responsible for maintenance and insurance expenses for a leased car.

At first blush, car leasing seems like a grand idea. After all, you can get more car for the same monthly financing payment. But a lower payment is only one part of the decision.

Many shoppers lease because they like driving a new vehicle every two or three years, staying under warranty, or simplifying business-use deductions. Automakers may also offer lease incentives that are not available on purchases. And when the lease ends, you can usually return the vehicle without selling it or negotiating a trade-in.

This guide explains how leasing works, what you can negotiate, how leasing compares with buying, and what to know before signing.

What Is Car Leasing?

Car leasing is like renting a vehicle for a contracted period, usually 24 to 36 months. Unlike financing a purchase, where payments help you eventually own the car, leasing means you pay for the vehicle’s estimated depreciation during the lease term, plus financing charges.

Most consumer leases are closed-end leases. That means the lease sets the mileage limit, monthly payment, term, and purchase option upfront.

What Do You Need to Know Before Leasing?

The most important question is: How many miles do you drive each year?

Leasing Mileage Cap

Signing a lease means agreeing to a mileage cap, usually 10,000 to 15,000 miles per year. Exceed it, and the leasing company charges a per-mile penalty.

Penalties often range from 12 cents to 30 cents per excess mile. At 30 cents per mile, every additional 1,000 miles would cost you $300. Before signing, estimate your annual driving and confirm the mileage charge.

What Is the Money Factor in Leasing?

When you finance a car, the cost of borrowing is shown as an interest rate. In a lease, that cost is called the money factor.

Money factors are shown as decimals, such as 0.0010 or 0.0023. To estimate the equivalent interest rate, multiply the money factor by 2,400. For example, 0.0023 x 2,400 = 5.5%.

Can I Negotiate the Price of a Leased Car?

Yes. You can negotiate the vehicle’s capitalized cost, which is the lease version of the purchase price. Manufacturer incentives or advertised lease deals may limit flexibility, but it is still worth asking.

TIP: Dealers may be more willing to negotiate before a new model arrives or near the end of the model year.

How Can I Reduce a Monthly Lease Payment?

Reduce the capitalized cost by negotiating a lower vehicle price.
Ask for a lower money factor, especially with strong credit.
Put more money down or negotiate a higher trade-in value.
Compare offers from multiple dealers.

What Can You Negotiate in a Lease?

Capitalized cost
Down payment
Trade-in value
Money factor
Disposition fee

What Usually Cannot Be Negotiated?

Residual value, which the leasing company generally sets
Acquisition fee, which lessors rarely waive

Who Maintains a Leased Car?

You are responsible for maintaining the vehicle according to the owner’s manual. Some new vehicles include complimentary maintenance, which can reduce lease-term costs.

At the end of the lease, the leasing company inspects the vehicle for damage beyond normal wear and tear. If the inspector finds excess wear, you will be charged.

Who Insures a Leased Car?

You are responsible for the insurance coverage for the leased vehicle. The leasing company sets minimum coverage requirements, so confirm those amounts and get an insurance quote before signing.

What If I Want Out of My Lease Early?

A car lease is a binding contract. If you end it early, expect a penalty. In some cases, you may owe a large portion of the remaining payments. You cannot simply sell the car because you do not own it.

Market conditions may give you options. A dealership might help you exit a lease early if it wants your vehicle. Lease-transfer services may also connect you with someone willing to assume the lease, though fees may apply.

Compare all costs before choosing an early-exit option.

How Does Credit Affect Car Leasing?

As with financing, leasing companies review your credit score and history. Leasing generally requires stronger credit than financing because the lessee builds no equity in the vehicle.

If your credit score is low, you may still qualify, but expect a larger down payment and a higher money factor.

RELATED: Can I Buy a Car with Poor Credit History?

Car Leasing vs. Buying

Whether you lease or finance, you will likely make monthly payments and pay upfront fees. With financing, the upfront cost is usually a down payment. With leasing, you may pay a security deposit, first month’s payment, acquisition fee, down payment, taxes, registration, or some combination.

Pros of Leasing

Lower monthly payment. Because you pay for estimated depreciation rather than the full purchase price, lease payments are usually lower than loan payments for the same vehicle.
New vehicle every few years. Leasing lets you drive a newer vehicle more often, usually while it is still under the factory warranty. You may also benefit from newer safety and technology features.
Easier end-of-term process. At lease end, you can usually return the car without selling it or negotiating a trade-in.
Possible purchase opportunity. If the car is worth more than its residual value, buying it at lease end may be a good deal.
Used-car leasing may be available. Some dealers lease certified pre-owned vehicles, usually newer models with warranty coverage.

RELATED: Returning a Lease Car: What To Expect

Cons of Leasing

No equity. Lease payments do not build ownership value. At the end, you return the vehicle unless you buy it.
Mileage limits. Every lease includes a mileage cap. Exceed it, and you pay a penalty. High-mileage leases cost more monthly, but can help frequent drivers avoid end-of-term charges
Damage charges. You are responsible for damage beyond normal wear and tear.
Early termination penalties. Ending a lease early can be expensive, even if you use a lease-transfer service.

Pros of Buying

Ownership. Once the loan is paid off, the vehicle is yours.
Resale or trade-in value. You can sell or trade the vehicle and use its value toward another car.
More flexibility. You can sell or trade a financed vehicle at any time, as long as you pay off the loan balance.

Cons of Buying

Higher upfront cost. Buyers often need a larger down payment, especially with weaker credit.
Higher monthly payment. Loan payments are usually higher than lease payments for the same vehicle.
Risk of being upside down. Depending on loan length, depreciation, and interest, you may owe more than the vehicle is worth for part of the loan term. After the warranty expires, repair costs are also your responsibility.

Leasing and Buying: Key Differences

You can draw some fairly strong contrasts between vehicle leasing and financing. Each offers both advantages and disadvantages. In the short term, leasing a car will cost less. However, two leases will cost more than buying one car in the long run. And at the end of the loan term, the vehicle will be paid off, and whatever value the car retains will be yours.

Here are some other differences.

	Leasing	Buying
Monthly Payments	Usually lower	Usually higher
Early Termination	Often costly	Possible if you pay off the loan
End of Term	Return, buy, or extend the lease	Keep, sell, or trade the car
Mileage	Limits apply	No mileage limits
Customization	Restricted	Allowed, within warranty limits
Warranty	Often covers most or all of lease term	May expire before the loan ends
Credit	Best deals require strong credit	Weaker credit may require more money down

Types of Leases

Closed-End Lease

A closed-end lease is the most common type. It sets the term, payment, mileage cap, and residual value upfront. If you meet the contract terms, you can return the car at lease-end. You may also have the option to buy it for a predetermined price.

Open-End Lease

An open-end lease places more risk on the lessee and is more common for businesses. If the vehicle’s market value is lower than the residual value at lease end, the lessee pays the difference. Open-end leases may offer more flexible mileage terms.

Single-Pay Lease

A single-pay lease requires all lease payments upfront. It can lower the money factor and total cost, and it may help shoppers with weaker credit qualify.

Can I Lease a Used Car?

Yes. Some dealerships lease used cars from its certified pre-owned vehicle inventory, usually newer models with factory warranty coverage and CPO benefits.

How Long Is a Car Lease?

Most leases last 24 or 36 months, though some advertised specials may run 39 months or longer. Longer terms can lower the monthly payment, but the difference may be modest.

Can a Car Lease Be Extended?

Yes. Many lessors allow month-to-month or fixed-term extensions. You will keep making payments and may need to sign an extension agreement.

Is It Possible to Lease a Car for One Year?

It is possible, but it can be expensive because vehicles depreciate quickly in the first year. A long-term rental or subscription-style car club may be a better short-term option.

Key Leasing Terms to Know

Term	Definition
Acquisition Fee	A fee charged to set up the lease. It can be as much as $1,000 and is rarely negotiable.
Allowable Mileage	Also called the “mileage cap,” the annual mileage limit is in the lease.
Capitalized Cost	The agreed selling price of the vehicle plus any fees included in the lease.
Capitalized Cost Reduction	Any payment, trade-in allowance, or rebate that lowers the capitalized cost.
Depreciation	The vehicle’s lost value during the lease.
Disposition Charge	A fee charged at lease end to clean and process the returned vehicle. It may be waived if you buy the car or lease another vehicle from the same company.
Drive-off Fees	Amounts due at signing, including fees, deposits, taxes, and the first payment.
Early Termination	Ending the lease before the contract expires. This can trigger significant penalties.
Gap Insurance	GAP (guaranteed asset protection) coverage that helps pay the difference if the leased vehicle is stolen or totaled and insurance does not cover the full balance.
Lessee	The person leasing the vehicle.
Lessor	The company that is financing the lease.
Money Factor	The lease’s financing charge. Multiply by 2,400 to estimate an annual percentage rate.
Payoff Amount	The cost to buy the vehicle is usually tied to the residual value.
Term	The length of the lease.

How to Lease a Car

Check your credit score. Strong credit can help you qualify for better lease terms.
Set your upfront budget. Know how much you can pay at signing, including fees and deposits.
Estimate your annual mileage. Choose a mileage cap that matches your driving habits.
Shop for vehicles with strong resale value. Higher expected residual value can lower the monthly payment.
Compare lease offers. Review capitalized cost, money factor, fees, mileage cap, and end-of-lease charges.

Questions to Ask Before Signing

Here are questions to ask the dealership or other lessor before you leap.

What is the residual value?
What is the lease-end purchase price?
What is the money factor, and what interest rate does it equal?
Is there a payment grace period?
What is the late-payment fee?
What fees apply at lease end?
What are the early-termination penalties?
What counts as normal wear and tear?
What is the charge for each excess mile?

Bottom Line on Car Leasing

Car leasing can provide lower monthly payments, a newer vehicle every few years, and warranty coverage during most or all of the term. But it also comes with mileage limits, no ownership equity, potential wear-and-tear charges, and costly early-termination penalties.

Leasing works best for drivers who want predictable short-term costs and newer vehicles. Buying is usually better for long-term ownership, flexibility, and building value in the vehicle.

Visit the Kelley Blue Book Affordability Hub to explore our curated articles designed to help you make smart, budget-friendly decisions.

Editor’s Note: We have updated this article since its initial publication.

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Used Peugeot 308 (Mk2, 2013-2021) review and buyer’s guide

admin — Fri, 22 May 2026 08:39:27 +0000

The 308 is a light car, though, with the 1.5 BlueHDi 130 Active model weighing in at just 1,204kg. A few years ago, this is the kind of figure we would have associated with a supermini, and shows the lightweight efficiencies of the new PSA Peugeot-Citroen EMP2 platform that the 308 uses.

The styling does make it hard to take full advantage of the car’s slightly more compact size, though: the back window is narrow and the C-pillars thick, and both compromise rear visibility.

Leg room, head room & passenger space

The Peugeot is rather disappointing for passengers in the rear, as a result of its short length and focus on maximising boot space. The rear doors are big enough, but there could be more space between the front and rear seats; climbing aboard can be a bit tricky. Foot space isn’t great, either, and the low-set rear bench only adds to the tight feel inside.

Getting out can be a struggle, too, particularly if you have bigger feet, and this is one of the few family cars in which adults in the rear may be asking those in the front to slide their seats forward. At least headroom isn’t bad – unless you choose the panoramic roof, that is. That’s worth noting if you’re looking at Active models and above, as it’s a temptingly priced £500 option.

Boot

On paper, the 308 has a very spacious boot, offering 470 litres with the seats up and 1,185 litres once they’re folded. But this is a little misleading, as the shape of the boot doesn’t quite allow owners to make full use of the space. This isn’t the estate-rivalling luggage bay the figures suggest.

The 308 does offer extra hidden space below the load area, which is handy, but it’s a pity this versatility hasn’t been extended to the interior. The glovebox is tiny and the armrest cubbyhole, normally a useful stowage space, is also cramped.

Did you know you can sell your car with Auto Express? Get the highest bid from our network of over 5,500 dealers and we’ll do the rest. Click here to try Auto Express Sell My Car now…

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An EV Charger Buying Guide: See All Your Options

admin — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:33:18 +0000

Owning and daily-driving an electric vehicle offers plenty of upside, but it comes with ownership costs, even without paying for fuel. Some of those costs relate to buying and installing a home EV charger, and while some people manage without one, the ownership experience is much less of a hassle when you can plug in and charge at home.

Beyond selecting a charger, you’ll need to think about where it’s installed, and many people find that their home electrical systems need an upgrade to handle the additional load. There are also different types of home chargers, including some that offer plug-and-play functionality and others that require a hardwired connection.

If you’ve got questions, we’ve got answers. This guide will help you learn about the different types of home electric vehicle chargers, their features, and what to look for when you’re in the market.

MORE: Electric Cars 101: What You Need to Know About EVs

Level 1 and Level 2 EV Chargers: What’s the Difference?

Unlike public charging stations, which can charge at 350 kilowatts (kWh) or more, you have only two options for charging in your home electrical system: Level 1 or Level 2. While the two offer wildly different charging speeds, both use SAE J1772 plugs, which were the industry standard for most automakers until recently. Tesla vehicles use a different system, but the company offers an adapter to expand charging access.

Level 1 charging uses a standard household outlet, and many new EVs come with a charging cord for home charging. That said, Level 1 should really be considered trickle charging, because it can take days to fully replenish some EV batteries, especially if they’ve been depleted below a 10% state of charge.

Level 2 chargers use a 240-volt connection, similar to a stove or clothes dryer, and are several times faster than Level 1’s trickle-charge speeds. While they don’t offer the speeds of DC fast chargers, Level 2 systems take hours to fully replenish an EV battery, rather than days.

Level 1 vs Level 2 Home EV Chargers

Pro

No extra equipment to buy

Many EVs include a Level 1 cord, so there’s nothing more to purchase upfront.

Pro

Uses a standard outlet

Plugs into a regular 120-volt outlet, so no special wiring is required to get started.

Con

Slow charging speed

A full recharge can take 11 to 20 hours, which is impractical for most all-electric vehicle owners.

Con

Outlet safety concerns

Drawing high current for hours through a standard household outlet can stress old wiring and overheat plugs. Level 2 setups are a more planned, secure way to charge, as they are installed on a dedicated circuit by an electrician.

Pro

Up to 8× faster charging

Delivers a complete charge in roughly 3 to 8 hours, making it much more practical for daily driving on a full battery.

Pro

Smart features and app control

Most Level 2 units pair with a connected app, so you can schedule off-peak charging, track energy use, set charge limits, and get status alerts from your phone.

Con

Requires a specific electrical setup

Needs a 240-volt outlet, like one used for an electric dryer, or a hardwired connection. An electrician is usually required.

Con

Higher upfront cost

Installation typically runs $400–$4,500. The unit itself adds $500–$1,500, with total costs averaging around $2,000.

Bottom line: Level 1 can work in a pinch or for plug-in hybrids, but its slow speed makes it a poor long-term fit for most all-electric vehicles. Level 2 costs more upfront and is the better choice for daily EV driving.

What to Consider When Buying a Level 2 Home Charger

Home EV Charger Installation Considerations

Look for UL certified chargers tested by Underwriters Laboratories.
Keep children and pets away from plugs, connectors, and receptacles.
Use the included connector holster to protect the plug from dust and moisture.

Garage mounting protects the unit and helps with cold-weather charging.
For outdoor use, choose a higher NEMA rating (NEMA-4 is better than NEMA-3 for rain and snow).
Confirm the unit is rated for your local climate before installing outside.

Chargers above 40 amps must be hardwired by a qualified electrician.
Plug-in Level 2 units are easier to swap, upgrade, or move to another home.
An electrician may still need to install a 240-volt outlet if one isn’t already nearby.

Renters and condo owners may need landlord or HOA approval first.
Have an electrician confirm your panel can handle a dedicated circuit.
Use a 32-amp minimum circuit; a 50-amp circuit supports a 40-amp charger.
Check for local permit and code requirements before installing.

Choose a rugged cable rated for shock protection and wet conditions.
Make sure the cable can reach your EV’s charge port from a reasonable parking spot.
Cables under 20 feet can force you to park in one specific direction.

Wi-Fi connectivity lets you start, stop, and monitor charging from an app.
Some models schedule charging during off-peak utility hours automatically.
Smart features typically add a few hundred dollars and are not essential for every driver or EV.

Companion apps can initiate charging during off-peak hours to save money.
Track energy used, average charging speeds, and session history.
Get reminders and status alerts directly on your phone.

Read buyer reviews to gauge real-world reliability.
Outdoor units must handle extreme temperatures, snow, rain, and wind.
Look for sturdy housings, sealed connectors, and a solid manufacturer warranty.

Check how heavy the cable is. Thicker, higher-amp cables can be tiring to handle.
See how easily the cable unwinds and stores on the unit or holster.
Make sure status lights or displays are easy to read at a glance.

MORE: Kelley Blue Book’s Comprehensive EV Guide

Editor’s Note: We have updated this article since its initial publication.

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Used BMW 5 Series (Mk7, 2017-2024) review and buyer’s guide

admin — Sun, 10 May 2026 08:22:30 +0000

If you want to upgrade the sound system, you can select the Harman Kardon option for £820. There’s a Bowers & Wilkins Diamond Surround sound system, although this costs an eye-watering £4,220.

Practicality, comfort and boot space

Given that the BMW 5 Series has grown in nearly every external dimension, it’s no surprise to find its bigger inside. In fact, it now comfortably matches the Audi A6 and Mercedes E-Class for space, and edges ahead of the Jaguar XF.

Boot capacity has increased, too – although close class benchmarking means it offers no real advantage over its immediate rivals in this regard. Yet if buyers want more luggage space, then there’s always the 5 Series Touring estate version.

Access to the cabin is straightforward thanks to wide-opening doors, and once inside there’s bags of head and legroom for rear seat passengers. It’s a similar story up front, where the driver gets a wide range of seat and wheel adjustment.

Like all BMW models, the driver’s seat can be set low, placing you at the heart of the action. The standard seats also offer plenty of support, particularly over long distances. M Sport models get more heavily bolstered sports items, while if you want a heating function for both the front and rear seats you’ll have to tick the optional Comfort Plus Pack.

Legroom, headroom and passenger space

You’d expect an executive saloon to be roomy and comfortable – and the 5 Series doesn’t disappoint. By stretching the whole car by 36mm, BMW engineers have liberated extra legroom, particularly for those sitting in the back. There’s enough space for even tall passengers to stretch out in comfort, while the rear bench is wide enough for three adults – although the large transmission tunnel means those sitting in the middle don’t have much room for their feet. Up front, the amount of space is equally generous. There’s also a wide range of seat adjustment, particularly for the driver.

Boot

BMW has boosted the carrying capacity of the 5 Series, but the 10-litre increase to 530 litres isn’t much to write home about. What’s more, it trails the 540-litre figures claimed by the Mercedes E-Class and Jaguar XF.

Go for the 530e or 545e plug-in hybrids however, and you’ll sacrifice 120 litres of space. That’s a fair chunk, although the Mercedes E 350e suffers to a larger extent, losing 140 litres over its conventionally-powered petrol and diesel siblings.

Still, the load bay is reasonably well shaped in all versions, while the opening is wide. There is a pair of handy cubbies behind each wheel arch, plus some storage beneath the boot floor. The split/fold rear seat further aids versatility.

Did you know you can buy a used car with Auto Express? Choose from tens of thousands of cars with trusted dealers around the UK. Click here to buy used with Auto Express now…

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Used Porsche 718 Boxster (Mk4, 2016-2025) buyer’s guide: sublime to own and cheaper than you’d think

admin — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 07:23:10 +0000

2016 Porsche

Boxster

51,700 milesManualPetrol2.7L

Cash £26,000

View Boxster

2016 Porsche

Boxster

50,500 milesManualPetrol2.7L

Cash £24,990

View Boxster

We were impressed as soon as we drove the 718 Boxster, and then Porsche introduced a six-cylinder version that was even better. Now the Boxster Mk4 has been axed, but its desirability isn’t diminished, so here’s what you need to know to buy your perfect example.

History

The fourth-generation Boxster was launched in January 2016, two decades after the original model was unveiled. The 296bhp Boxster had a turbocharged 2.0-litre four-cylinder engine, while the 345bhp Boxster S version came with a turbocharged 2.5-litre engine.

Launched in October 2017, the Boxster GTS had a 360bhp 2.5-litre engine, while the 296bhp Boxster T that arrived in December 2018 was a driver-focused entry-level variant that was lighter than standard, sat 20mm lower and was fitted with adaptive dampers.

The Boxster Spyder that was introduced in September 2019 packed a 414bhp 4.0-litre naturally aspirated six-cylinder engine; this same powerplant was fitted to the Boxster GTS 4.0 that was launched in January 2020, in 388bhp form. The Boxster 25 Years that arrived in January 2021 marked a quarter of a century of production and was based on the GTS 4.0; it was limited to 1,250 units worldwide.

On the road

There are many reasons why you want a Boxster, but this is the key one. Any correctly maintained and properly set up Boxster is fabulous to drive, from the weighting and feedback of the controls to the scintillating performance. Ride comfort is amazing considering how sharp the handling is, too.

The six-cylinder engines are smooth and sound superb, while the four-cylinder units are torquey, frugal and lighter. So both engines have their pros and cons and it’s the same for the transmissions; both manuals and autos are ultra-slick, and chosen purely based on personal preference.

Which one should I buy?

Even the slowest Boxster, the 2.0-litre edition, can crack 170mph and do 0-62mph in 5.1 seconds, while the Spyder can do 187mph and 0-62mph in 4.4 seconds. The six-cylinder versions are glorious, but the 2.5-litre S model has the perfect balance of poke and poise, even if it doesn’t sound as lovely as a 4.0-litre edition (for which you’ll pay a very hefty premium).

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Used Skoda Superb (Mk3, 2015-2024) review and buyer’s guide

admin — Fri, 03 Apr 2026 23:35:10 +0000

If you want a car with a similarly roomy cabin, you’ll need an executive saloon or estate, such as an Audi A6/A7, a BMW 5 Series or a Mercedes E-Class – all of which cost much more to buy, and their running costs are likely to be far higher, too. The alternative is to opt for an MPV instead, such as the Ford Galaxy, SEAT Alhambra or Volkswagen Sharan, all of which are ultra-practical, great value and decent to drive.

What to look out for

Dials

From October 2018, digital instrumentation could replace the standard analogue dash dials. This ‘Virtual Cockpit’ option cost £450-£550.

Wheels

Superbs in S trim have 16-inch wheels, SE brings 17-inch items, and SE L Executive/L&K get 18-inch rims. Smaller wheels improve ride comfort.

Towing

All Superb variants are capable of towing between 1,500-2,000kg, apart from four-wheel-drive models, which can pull 2,200kg.

Engines

Only the 148bhp 1.4 TSI and 1.5 TSI engines have Active Cylinder Technology. This shuts down two cylinders during light engine loads to save fuel.

Interior

The Superb’s cabin is really strong, and undoubtedly one of the highlights of the car. It has huge amounts of space and a user-friendly dash, offers lots of equipment, and gives good all-round visibility, while the car as a whole is built to a very high standard.

Entry-level Superbs don’t feel quite as special and feature a fair few blanking plates around the gearlever, for example, but as you move up the range, the materials used are much improved (such as leather/Alcantara upholstery), while the infotainment screens grow in size and improve in functionality. Boot space is deeply impressive, at 625/1,725 litres for the hatch (rear seats up/down); the estate is even better at 660/1,950 litres.

Prices

Check out the latest used prices for the Skoda Superb on our Find a Car service or use our free car valuation tool for prices on a specific car.

Running costs

Fixed servicing is every year/9,300 miles, alternating from minor to major, at £185 and £245. Or the alternative variable regime can see up to two years between services, but each is a major.

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Used Toyota C-HR (Mk1, 2017-2023) buyer’s guide: futuristic styling helps hide its age

admin — Thu, 26 Feb 2026 21:12:41 +0000

The Nissan Qashqai is comfortable and versatile, the Kia Sportage and Hyundai Tucson are great value and reliable, while the sharply styled Mazda CX-5 has a premium cabin and excellent dynamics. None of these cars comes as a hybrid; if this is important to you take a closer look at the Lexus UX, which is closely related to the C-HR.

What to look for

Towing

The 1.2T in manual form can tow 1,300kg; 1.2T autos can pull 1,100kg, but the 1.8 and 2.0 Hybrid models can haul just 725kg.

Gearbox

Very few C-HRs are fitted with a manual gearbox, so it’s CVT mostly. It’s not the slickest transmission, so make sure you’re happy with it.

Safety kit

Entry-level Icon cars have no blind-spot monitoring or rear cross-traffic alert; until the 2019 facelift lane-departure warning was an option.

Cracks

The most popular thread on the UK C-HR owners’ forum is about cracked windscreens, with damage in the top right corner of the glass the most likely area.

Common faults

Some owners complain of wind noise from ineffective window and door seals, plus nav glitches. Shorter kids may find the back-door handles tricky to reach, and the cabin is gloomy once they’re in there.

Interior

The C-HR’s dashboard is far from bland, but it’s not over-designed. Indeed, it’s very user-friendly, with a decent blend of physical and touchscreen controls. The cabin is also very well made, with plenty of premium materials and more space than you might expect. There’s room for five adults if they’re not too big, and boot space is okay, at 377 litres with the rear seats in place, or 1,164 litres with them folded; many rivals are better, but these figures ensure a decent level of practicality.

Running costs

All C-HRs need to be serviced every 10,000 miles or 12 months, with maintenance alternating between minor and major. No fresh cambelts are required because the engines are chain-driven. The battery warranty will run for up to 15 years, plus if you’re hit with an unexpectedly large bill, some dealers offer up to six months’ interest-free credit to pay. An array of service plans is available, which don’t save you cash, but let you to pay on a monthly basis.

Recalls

The C-HR has been recalled six times so far, all of them between December 2017 and November 2019. The first campaign was launched because the hybrid powertrain hadn’t been bolted together properly and could work loose; the second came in January 2018, because some cars were fitted with fuel tanks that could leak.

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E85 Guide: Everything You Need To Know About Flex Fuel

admin — Fri, 23 Jan 2026 04:53:57 +0000

What Is Flex Fuel: E85 Quick Facts

E85 fuel is blended from about 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline.
Flex-fuel vehicles can use E85 or regular unleaded; traditional gas engines cannot use E85 flex fuel.
E85 costs around 60 cents less per gallon than regular gas, but vehicles using it travel fewer miles per gallon.
E85 is not available at every filling station.

Vehicles that can run on flexible fuel, a blend of gasoline and ethanol also known as “flex fuel,” gained popularity in the 1990s. In turn, manufacturers began producing new cars that could use this biofuel blend. But many motorists know little about ethanol-blended gasoline labeled E85 at gas pumps.

Even some owners of flex-fuel vehicles, or FFVs, have questions about gasoline-ethanol blends. Read on to learn about flex fuel and whether you can use E85 or other blended gas in your vehicle.

What Is Flex Fuel?

Flexible fuel is the general term for a renewable and domestically-produced alternative fuel that is gasoline blended with ethanol. Ethanol is made from a collection of plant materials, including corn. Most of the gas sold in the United States contains some ethanol. However, E85 for FFVs uses a higher percentage of ethanol. So, what is E85 gas?

Also known as flex fuel, E85 is a gasoline-ethanol blend containing between 51% to 85% ethanol, depending on the season and geographic region of the distributor. For example, E85 sold during colder months often has lower ethanol levels to produce the vapor pressure necessary for starting in cold temperatures.

RELATED: Types of Gasoline Explained: Learn the Differences

Can My Car Use Flex Fuel?

Manufacturers make flex-fuel vehicles with modified internal combustion engines using traditional gasoline and ethanol blends, such as E85. A badge with “Flex-Fuel,” “FFV,” or “E85” on the rear of the vehicle may indicate it is compatible with the alternative fuel.

Having a yellow gas cap is a good indication that the car can use flex fuel. If the vehicle has a capless fuel filler, a yellow ring around the hole where the nozzle is inserted indicates that E85 is compatible with the vehicle.

Using any octane level of gasoline in a flex-fuel vehicle is acceptable. The sensors in an FFV detect whether the fuel is pure gasoline or 85% ethanol and make necessary changes for optimal fuel injection and combustion timing.

Putting E85 in a car not designed for flexible fuel can be harmful. Always refer to the owner’s manual for specifications on the optimal fuel to use in your vehicle.

Can You Use Regular Gas in a Flex-Fuel Vehicle?

One benefit of flex-fuel vehicles is that they are also compatible with regular gasoline. FFV engines have sensors that detect the gasoline-ethanol ratio in the fuel and make adjustments for optimal performance.

Can You Use Flex Fuel in a Regular Gas Car?

Flex fuel, such as E85, can be used only in flex-fuel vehicles and will damage a traditional gasoline engine.

MORE: What Happens if You Put Diesel in a Gas Car?

Why Would I Use Flex Fuel?

Proponents of higher ethanol-gasoline blends cite lower greenhouse-gas emissions since flex fuel burns cleaner than pure gasoline, and its use reduces reliance on foreign oil. The primary ingredient in the production of ethanol is corn, a sustainable crop grown in the United States.

E85 costs less per gallon than regular gasoline, making it an attractive option. At this time, AAA reports the national average gas price for a gallon of E85 is about $2.23 — about 60 cents less than a gallon of regular unleaded gas.

Flex Fuel Disadvantages

While the price per gallon of E85 is typically less than that of regular gas, FFVs using the ethanol-gasoline blend have lower fuel economy ratings. In some cases, the difference in mileage is close to 25%.

For example, a 2023 Ford F-150 2WD FFV pickup with a 3.3-liter 6-cylinder engine achieves 21 mpg combined when using gasoline but only 16 mpg combined when using E85. Often, the lower price per gallon for E85 offsets the loss in mileage.

RELATED: Should You Use Premium Gas?

Availability of E85 and FFVs

Around 4,800 gas stations across the U.S. sell E85 flex fuel, mostly in corn-producing Eastern and Midwestern states. However, you can find vehicles compatible with E85 nationwide because those automobiles can also use traditional gasoline.

The number of flex-fuel vehicles on the road today is unclear. One study found 21 million FFVs in the U.S. in 2017. More recently, some estimate that more than 27 million vehicles are using flex fuel.

The number of new FFV offerings from manufacturers has decreased, as automakers shifted focus to hybrid and electric vehicles.

Three automotive brands — Buick, Chevrolet, and GMC — offer FFVs in the 2025 model year. Flex-fuel compatibility may depend on specific trim levels or engine selection. Additionally, some models using E85 may be designated for fleet sales only.

According to the Renewable Fuels Association (RFA), more than 80 different models from eight manufacturers were available to consumers as recently as the model year 2015.

RELATED: Car Maintenance Guide: Everything You Need to Know

Other Ethanol Blends

E10

About 98% of the gasoline sold in the U.S. contains ethanol, typically E10 with 10% ethanol and 90% gasoline.

E15

Another blend, E15 (with 15% ethanol), entered the market in 2011. Sales were restricted during the summer months, but EPA waivers since 2021 have permitted year-round E15 sales. The EPA allows E15 for light-duty vehicles built after 2000. Manufacturers approve the use of E15 in approximately 95% of their model-year 2024 automobiles, according to a review of owner’s manuals and warranty statements by the trade group RFA. The group says the blend is available at more than 2,800 gas stations, and the average cost of E15 is about 25 cents per gallon less than regular unleaded.

E25

The RFA’s annual review indicates that E25 blends, containing up to 25% ethanol, are approved by the manufacturer for use in BMW and Mini vehicles. The 2024 Toyota GR Supra — developed with BMW — also allows E25.

E98

E98, 98% ethanol, is a popular fuel for some types of race cars.

If you’re trying to find the right car for you, check out our best cars and top 10 lists and the most fuel-efficient sedans.

Editor’s Note: We have updated this article since its initial publication.

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